In 2003, having accomplished the graduate program at Central Saint Martins, Jones began his personal, eponymous line. But it surely was his string of company gigs—at Umbro and Hugo Boss and even working as a guide for Pastelle, Kanye West’s pre-Yeezy trend model—that inevitably proved extra predictive of his future. At a time when homes started counting on consultants and inventive administrators to offer their staid legacies a youth transfusion, Jones started coaching his safari eyes to identify the razor-thin line between what a label wanted to remain contemporary and what it wanted to remain solvent, finally touchdown at Dunhill, the über-historical British menswear home. “Out of the 40 designers they requested to do the Dunhill challenge,” Jones recollects, “I used to be the one one which referenced the archive. That is why they selected me.”
Three years into his tenure at Dunhill, Jones was appointed Louis Vuitton’s menswear designer by the home’s then artistic director, Marc Jacobs. He spent the following seven years churning out collections that pulled all the things from Hawaiian shirts to camouflage denims into the posh universe of Vuitton. On the home, Jones was cultivating a imaginative and prescient that merged luxurious males’s trend with the copy-and-paste eclecticism of the social media period. “With Vuitton, I labored so much from suggestions on Instagram,” says Jones, who additionally made a degree throughout his tenure to drop into the LV shops in no matter metropolis he occurred to be visiting.
One may guess that the inspiration for Jones’s most well-known masterstroke at Louis Vuitton—the model’s 2017 collaboration with Supreme—got here from certainly one of these international walkabouts. However actually, in line with Jones, it was a serendipitous leveraging of his intern-era Rolodex: “The Supreme factor got here from [Louis Vuitton CEO] Michael Burke asking me for [Supreme founder] James Jebbia’s quantity. I knew James from Gimme 5, as a result of they used to import Supreme into the U.Ok. So I stated, ‘I am going to provide the quantity so long as we will do a collaboration.’ ”
“We would have brainstorms about who we should always collaborate with,” remembers Supreme’s then model director, Angelo Baque. “Dior? However then it was like, ‘Cease, that sounds cool, however let’s discuss one thing that is truly going to occur.’ ” The collaboration, which featured crimson Epi leather-based turntables and Molly-dealer-ready hip luggage, spawned eight pop-ups in June of that 12 months, creating postapocalyptic scenes of line tenting. The launch led to a increase for LVMH at giant, with income up 18 p.c from the prior 12 months. In October the private-equity agency Carlyle Group bought 50 p.c of Supreme, valuing the skate model at a reported $1 billion. Jones introduced his resignation from LV 4 months later—and, shortly after that, his appointment to the job of creative director of males’s collections at Dior.
Again at the showroom, proof of Jones’s mastery at smashing issues collectively is all over the place. Ready on the desk is a choice of jewellery created by Ambush cofounder and design director of males’s jewellery Yoon Ahn and artist Daniel Arsham. The designer factors to the board of seems subsequent to us, at males’s fits modeled after Dior’s “Tailleur Indirect” lower, a womenswear tailoring sample debuted by Christian Dior himself early in his profession—“I feel 1950,” chimes in Lucy Beeden. In entrance of a close-by balcony sits a desk stuffed with soon-to-be-highly-Grailable aluminum “hand instances,” made in collaboration with LVMH’s latest baggage acquisition Rimowa.
Almost 20 years in, Jones has refined his magpie method—to a degree. “The primary time I met Kim was at his first Dior present, and it was day-before-the-show chaos,” recollects the actor and Dior model ambassador Robert Pattinson. “There is a type of wildness that follows Kim round that is fairly enjoyable. I like Kris [Van Assche, Jones’s predecessor at Dior] as effectively, however it was a giant distinction seeing Kris’s assortment two days earlier than his present: Every little thing could be utterly carried out, hanging on the rails, utterly organized.”